Simple sailing by day and comfortable quaint inns at night, a daysailing
cruise up the Hudson River proves rich in history and fun
The Hudson River is full of history, intrigue, culture and
cuisine, stretching from the commotion of Manhattan to the wilderness
of the Catskills, from glitzy Vanderbilt Mansion to notorious Sing-Sing
prison. Pirates, folklore, ghosts, Indians, sports, industry—the Hudson
has it all.
But on top of that, the Hudson is the river of my youth.
We spent lazy summer afternoons canoeing to Bannerman’s Island, scaling
the ruins and leaping into the murky moats and fishing, hiking and
biking its shores. In the spring we eagerly watched for migrating birds
at Kemey’s Cove, and in the winters, when the river froze, we’d gather
at the magnificent sight and thunderous “boom” of cracking ice. For the
first three decades of my life, I never lived more than 8 miles from
that beautiful river.
Overtly aware of the many Crayola-colored poisonous frogs
crouched in the corners of the shed, I hopped on one foot trying on rubber
boots until I finally found a pair that fit. The size of a thumbnail, these
tiny creatures are actually only toxic if you ingest them, and I was not into
kissing any frogs that day. But I could have: the dendrobatids were just
adorable – and rare, as they’re critically endangered due to habitat loss and
pollution.
EcoTourism
Pioneer
The mere presence of these
rainbow-splashed amphibians at Costa Rica’s Selva Verde Lodge testified to the measures this
award-winning establishment has undertaken to protect and maintain this fragile
ecosystem over the past three decades. Deep in the lowland rainforest two hours
north of the capitol city of San Jose, Selva Verde Lodge is a true pioneer in
the ecotourism business.
At the time the lodge was founded, Costa Rica’s entire
Atlantic coast to central valley was a sweeping expanse of rainforest. Now just
a smattering of farms, reserves and plantations remain, supplying the needed
swathes of natural habitat that allow wildlife to migrate and maintain optimal
biodiversity.
Selva Verde oversees a vital part of
the San Juan–La Selva Biological Corridor,
and we had the opportunity to explore a portion of it on a naturalist-led hike
when we arrived. Donning thick rubber boots (to protect us from stinging and
biting creatures), we breathed in the fresh jungle air as we trekked over
suspension bridges, along a rushing stream, and beneath the sigh of the canopy.
Our guide pointed out the unique characteristics of nearly every living thing,
and how it thrived amidst the roughly 500-acre Preservation Area.
Sustainability
Primary to Selva Verde’s sustainability goal is maintaining
a vibrant future, not only for the wildlife, but also for the people of the
Sarapiqui region, so their programs incorporate adventures and education for
visitors. Guests can enjoy the lowland jungle via horseback or zip line; raft
the tumbling Sarapiqui River; or hike through a cacao plantation as we did –
and make hot chocolate from scratch. In addition, resident naturalists are on
site to lead talks on traditional curative uses of rainforest flora,
conservation projects or wildlife.
And
wildlife abounds, from the miniscule poisonous frogs (and other non-toxic
species) to monkeys, vipers and ants the size of walnuts. Relaxing at the pool,
I stirred at the sound of a peculiar ‘Whomp! Whomp! Whomp!’ overhead and
realized it was the awkward flight of the Toucan. Nearby, giant iguanas leapt
from tree to tree. Selva Verde Lodge boasts refuge to ‘300-plus species of
birds, 120 species of mammals, numerous amphibians and reptiles, and countless
invertebrates’ all told.
The resort proves a tranquil destination for all ages and
abilities. Accommodations are clustered in understated wooden structures
connected by a series of covered walkways (which are peppered with giant water
dispensers – to eliminate the use of plastic bottles). Wrap-around balconies
hung with colorful hammocks allow for relaxing days; oversized screened windows
let the cool air in at night – along with the boisterous calls of marauding
howler monkeys.
Selva
Verde was awarded Costa Rica’sCertification for Sustainable Tourism(CST) for
the implementation of water conservation and wastewater management systems,
energy conservation, the use of biodegradable laundry and cleaning products and
maintaining the grounds without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides or
herbicides. The lodge also controls excessive noise and light pollution to
limit the effects on wildlife and the environment.
Rooms
in the River Lodge include meals; private bungalows are also available. If you
are flying within Costa Rica, consider Nature Air – “the world’s
first 100 percent carbon neutral airline.”
* please click on the headline to see the full article and all images
Nearly two miles (3k) of beach have been opened along the Bay of Plenty, as recovery of the M/V Rena oil spill continues into New Zealand’s Labour Weekend.
Traditionally the start of summer, this year’s holiday will see most of the popular coastline closed due to oil and flotsam from the container ship wreckage. The public are warned not to swim in the vicinity, nor eat seafood or shellfish taken from area waters.
Twelve miles offshore, salvage workers continue to pump oil slowly and methodically from the listing vessel, which became lodged on a shallow reef more than two weeks ago. Cold water temperatures (62F, 17C) have affected the viscosity of the oil, which complicates the procedure.
Less than 20 percent of roughly 1,300 tons of oil has been transferred from Rena to the storage ship Awanuia – however workers expect to continue unabated until it is done.
The palm trees are hunched and the sea obscured by the furious wind and rain. Thankfully I’d declined to race Commodore’s Cup, and while my sympathies are with those sailors today, I hope the storm gives its’ all and doesn’t hold back – and has nothing left for the next three days!
The Heineken Regatta boasts it is “serious fun” – the place to be whether you are a hard core racer, non-spin cruiser, party boat, or anything in between. So I’ve decided to test the waters and experience all three, in my three days of racing here. And my lineup is incredible!
Friday I’ll race aboard FAT CAT, an 80-foot Morelli/Miller designed luxury catamaran, on the long (32-mile) race around the island. FAT CAT is owned by a very smiley man named John (Winter?), with the legendary T. Randy West as sailing master, and they warmly invited me aboard without any hesitation at last night’s Heineken Regatta ‘Welcome Sailors Party’ at St. Martin YC. Well that’s a welcome indeed!
Earlier in the week, as I was staring at the bulletin board trying to make sense of the teensy print of the scratch sheets (my reading glasses were still in my luggage) a lovely lady offered to help find what I was looking for. But I didn’t know what I was looking for, I explained, and once she grasped my challenge she – Lea deHaas – invited me to sail aboard SYNERGY.
Lea’s Frers 49 SYNERGY is a well-know boat down here: racing with an all-women crew (TEAM WAVE: Women Against Violence Everywhere) they have won their class in the Newport-Bermuda Race and are frequently found on the podium, collecting their share of silver ‘jewelry’ in races throughout the Caribbean. I am thrilled to be sailing with Lea and the gals (including Val Doan on the helm and Denise Holmberg as tactician) on Saturday’s (26-mile) race from Simpson Bay to Marigot (with a few offshore zigzags in between)!
Sunday, my new friends from TEAM LYNCH MOB say, I’m, ‘Saving the best for last ...’In truth, I’m afraid these party pros from The Lynch Mob might destroy me: so indeed I saved NADARA - a cruising class 50’ Beneteau helmed by Eric Lynch – for the final day of racing; just in case I cannot get out of bed the following morning ...
Eric and crew found me at the YC last night and I received a raucous welcome. These kids were just warming up, I fear, but I’m looking forward to the short (16-mile) boomerang course from Marigot to Simpson Bay – where Wyclef Jean will be performing(!) at the party afterwards.
Check back for updates (if I’m conscious) and be sure to visit the Heineken Regatta website daily for news and results, images, and video
For now, I'm holed up in my enclave at the Blue Pelican (a lovely villa which is upscale, serene and walking distance to St Martin Yacht Club and Simpson Bay) watching for a break in the rain, so I can venture out to Hilma's Windsor Castle for some johnnycakes ...
WHERE ELSE can you watch world class match racing (champions like Peter Holmberg and Gavin Brady!) while leaning on a patio bar at a yacht club, sipping a cold Heinie, beneath a balmy bluebird sky ... ?
Today’s Budget Marine Match Racing Regatta took place just off the St Martin Yacht Club, in ridiculously tetchy waters mined with mooring cans, kayakers, jet skies, and mega yachts queuing for the drawbridge that opens every other hour. Conditions made for great entertainment - and a few lessons, for spectators and participants alike!
For me, the thrill was watching the action up-close-and-personal on the press boat, with the infamous Bobbie G, Herb McCormick, Rob the video guy and Mario, ace driver. We zoomed around the ever-changing course (the wind shifty and temperamental) sometimes adding to the fray of obstacles – oops – admiring the strategy and skills of the sailors.
Racing teeny three-man Jeanneau SunFast 20s (they look like stubby toy boats, and organizers warned more than once “they sink very easily”!) they took deft handling and tactics to make the racing dynamic and fast-paced! Eight competitors from around the world did a single round robin, then went directly into the finals, with Colin Rathburn (BVI) and Simon Shaw (UK) duking it out for third and fourth (respectively).
No surprise: it was Peter Holmberg and Gavin Brady vying for top honors. Peter has won this regatta in each of its first two years; nearly succumbing to Gavin’s challenge last year. This year Gavin prevailed (read Herb’s play-by-play here) meaning BOTH of these pro sailors are sure to return next year, to grapple it out again.
But the star of the show for me was Erik van Poelgeest – aka Young Grasshopper. Just 23 years old, match racing for only two years, he put in a respectable performance, finishing sixth out of eight. His enthusiasm, even when he got hammered, was delightful, and I cheered loudly when he won his last race. It takes some cajones to come out and get spanked by the big boys, but Erik recognized the regatta as an unparalleled learning experience ... which was welcomed by Peter, Gavin, and the like. “It’s a great, casual event: I love it!” said a not-sounding-so-defeated Peter ... ‘Just more “serious fun” from the people at Heineken and St. Martin. Read more about it in my upcoming SAILING article.
Heading to the beach & signing off ~ Betsy Crowfoot, for SAILING magazine
PHOTOS: match racing right off the yacht club patio; the Rev Bobbie G at work; fustercluck at the ww mark
SEAL BEACH, CA February 19 -- A military helicopter spotted the sailboat Quest 275 miles off the coast of Oman yesterday, “with Africans onboard and a skiff in tow,” confirming the capture of the 58-foot blue water cruiser, with owners Scott and Jean Savage Adam and two other Americans aboard. News reports had indicated their attempts to send an SOS signal were subverted by the pirates.
The Adams are well known Southern California sailors, having cruised and raced local waters extensively, and competed in the Marina del Rey to Puerto Vallarta yacht race in 2003. The two other victims are Phyllis Mccay, who recently suffered an eye injury and requires daily medical treatment; and the crew’s latest recruit, Robert 'Bob' Riggle, of Seattle, according to new reports from The New York Times.
Having cruised the Pacific for nearly a decade in their goal to distribute Bibles and “enjoy God’s creation,” the Adams last year joined the Oz-Med Rally which offers “extra security in some dangerous waters of the world” (according to the organizer's website) – a conspicuously hazardous stretch of ocean. Boats assembled at various ports between Mackay, Australia and Phuket, Thailand in the fall, with the goal of convening in Crete mid-April.
Quest’sSPOT(satellite position locator) showed them in Mumbai, India in early February. But according to rally organizer Richard Bolt, Questjoined the Oz-Med segment of Blue Water Rallies in Phuket and sailed as far as Mumbai; “Then they decided to take their own route across the Indian Ocean, and were on their own. We had no other yachts in the vicinity.”
Bolt did not divulge the location or status of the remainder of the flotilla, for security purposes. His website reads:
“It is true that we take a route past Aden and up the Red Sea. However, when approaching notorious waters, the rally is organized into tactical defensive formations and you are briefed on a strategy which offers the best chance of avoiding any unwanted piratical attention. Blue Water Rallies have been helping yachts safely through the Red Sea approaches for 15 years – that is about 200 yachts and lots more people. So far we have a 100% success record. We liaise very closely with all the friendly forces in the area and we report the positions of each convoy at regular intervals. Whilst we cannot provide an armed escort, we do have naval forces keeping a brotherly eye open for your welfare. If you are going to sail through these waters, we like to think that sailing with us is the safest way to do it.”
Accomplished mariners (both Scott and Jean hold a USCG captain's license) the Adams were presumed to be following defensive practices: deliberately keeping communications spare, to avoid detection by pirates; running without lights at night; and staying well offshore.
None-the-less, they were captured several hundred miles off the coast by Somali rebels Feb. 18. The vessel is expected to arrive in Somalia Sunday according to MSNBC; no demands have yet been announced. An estimated 29 ships and 660 hostages are being held by Somali pirates at present.
Armchair boaters and critics remain skeptical about transiting this area at all, and yet experienced sailors pose the question: do you risk the gauntlet of terrorists to the north? Or the treacherous Cape of Storms to the south? There is no easy route for intrepid boaters sailing round the world.
“You take one dangerous route, or the other dangerous route,” explains Capt. Karen Prioleau – a USCG licensed captain and instructor with thousands of miles of offshore experience.
Family and friends continue to hope and pray for the crew of Quest. “These are good and gentle people,” said Jean’s ex-husband, Bill Savage. “They’ve put everything into the ministry they’ve been carrying throughout the Pacific and Southeast Asia, and are hoping to carry into the lands they are in now. We hope they will be respected and we hope our government and the concerned authorities in the area will secure their release as rapidly as possible.”
Their website– which was last updated in December – shows Quest’s proposed route leaving Mumbai would bring them to Salalah, Oman; Djibouti; and El Gouna, Egypt. After convening with the flotilla in Crete, their ultimate goal is to join their children and grandchildren in London, UK for Christmas 2011.
“We communicated last weekend, when they were leaving Mumbai on this journey,” added Savage – the father of Jean’s sons. “I asked ‘What if anything happens?’ and she said, ‘We are following our dreams ... pray for us.’”
A cold spell that swept the west coast last spring has resonated throughout California’s wine country, and seemingly cast a shadow over Sunstone’s 2008 harvest.
The unusual cold snap struck at a critical time when the berries were still young and developing, resulting in a loss of clusters.
“The frost we had in March was not indicative of this growing region,” says winemaker Brittany Rice. Brittany has been involved in making the Rice Family’s wines since 1999 and in that time has never witnessed such a severe dip in temperature. Unaccustomed to such frosts, Sunstone was unable to protect the new clusters.
The adverse effects were especially dramatic in the low-lying areas. Strolling the vineyard as the season progressed, it became evident that there were fewer, smaller clusters, containing berries of all different sizes. “We’re definitely seeing a lesser yield, about two tons per acre versus the normal three or three-and-a-half tons per acre,” Brittany notes.
But there’s a silver lining in this act of Mother Nature. With fewer bunches per vine, each of the clusters received more attention and benefit from the nutrients and photosynthesis. The end result is a high quality harvest, with intense concentrations of flavor which will lend a bold and structured character to wines crafted from the 2008 harvest.
So, despite an unusual growing season, Brittany expects the 2008 estate and reserve releases will be the same superior quality Club Members have come to expect from Sunstone. “The quantity of grapes might be less,” she summarizes, “but the quality is extraordinary.”
Grape Stomp and annual romp draw sell-out crowd
The annual harvest Grape Stomp was held at Sunstone on two successive Saturdays, to a sold-out crowd of Club Members and their guests.
Intrepid revelers arrived as the morning fog was dissipating, and were met by Club Sunstone ‘Divas’ Carol Treat (Club Administrator) and Nicole Sattler (Events Manager). Energized with Sunstone Sunrises (a blend of orange juice and Viognier), coffee and pastries, they trekked through the lush vineyards on an in-depth tour led by vintner Bion Rice, and winemaker Brittany Rice. Trying on the role of apprentice winemakers, participants tested the readiness of the fruit with a refractometer, and learned about the unique geography of the region and our atypical 2008 growing season.
Wending their way to the production facility, Brittany gave the group an overview of wine-making techniques. Then all enjoyed a sneak-preview barrel tasting of the 2006 Rapsodie du Soleil − confirming that the newest version of this Rhone-style blend will be another winner.
But before they could clamber into the vat of grapes for the much anticipated stomp, our guests were put to work! A bottle-opening contest pitted the red team against the blue team, in a battle to uncork four cases of wine. Foils were flying and corks were popping as each squad raced through a dozen bottles of 2005 Eros, 2006 Estate Merlot, 2006 Syrah Rose and 2007 Chardonnay.
The impressive group effort of the ‘contestants’ paralleled the extraordinary teamwork required to bring the wine from the earth to the table. Bion recognized the cellar crew of Jose, Elena and Lupe, who have been with Sunstone over a decade, and extended thanks to all our patrons for their genuine support over the years.
And our members reciprocated. “It’s heartfelt,” said Colleen Burow, who was attending her third Stomp. “Hearing the kids (Bion and Brittany) talk about the vineyards, their family, and the wines: it’s a feel-good event.”
“The personal touch from the Rice family was wonderful,” said Joseph and Rina Lee, who added that the day’s festivities and warmth of friendships old and new “sealed the deal” in their decision to join Club Sunstone.
And at last: the Stomp! As grapes were delivered to the lawn our members pitched in, shoveling the fruit into the waiting vat; then squealing with laughter as their toes hit the juicy mass. There was picture-taking, and prancing, and a conga line (or two), as guests leapt feet-first into the age-old ritual. Afterwards they enjoyed music and dancing while John and Martha Poulis kept the wine flowing, and individual apple basket picnic lunches quelled their appetites.
“We love this one-on-one time with the members,” Brittany reflected. “When people come celebrate and enjoy the harvest, it motivates us to get out there and make more great wine."
Something for everyone
Club Sunstone’s monthly events offer something for everyone – from the casual movie-goer to the connoisseur of elegant dining.
Our inaugural Cinema Alfresco took advantage of a balmy summer night to screen the romantic comedy “A Good Year.” Members made a day of it, picking up their new releases and wine-tasting, before capping off the perfect day with the perfect evening. Seated amidst the ambience of Sunstone’s courtyard, beneath a starry sky, guests could easily fancy themselves part of the cast of the movie, which was filmed at a vineyard in Provence. A complimentary buffet of Eros, cheeses, Doce de Alma port, chocolate and coffee added to the great reviews. Cinema Alfresco is sure to become a perennial favorite and plans are already in place to screen “A Walk in the Clouds” – set in NapaValley, and called “a glorious romantic fantasy” by Roger Ebert – next August.
“Decadence” was the buzzword for Chef Jeff Olsson’s tribute to fall splendor at our annual Harvest Dinner October 4. Since ancient times people have gathered to celebrate and give thanks for a successful growing season, and Sunstone’s opulent fête followed in this tradition. The extraordinary, upscale menu was especially crafted by the experts at New West Catering to pair with our premium wines. Set in the CuveeCave, warmly decorated to reinforce the dynamic relationship of sun and earth that Sunstone honors, it proved an unforgettable evening for all.
Coming up, and back by popular demand, is our second annual Taste of Autumn luncheon, November 9. This three-course plated feast is also hosted in Sunstone’s CuveeCave, festively dressed in the harvest theme. Come bask in the gold and umber glow of the vineyard while you indulge in an elegant menu ($65 per person).
Wrapping up the season is the complimentary Open House, December 6. With our bucolic estate decorated for an old-fashioned holiday, it’s sure to get you in the spirit of the season. In addition to the tasting list, you’ll be treated to Doce de Alma port and spiced mulled wine throughout the day.
Indeed, Nicole points to our upcoming calendar as having “something for everyone – and a nice way to celebrate the year and enter the holiday season.” Make plans soon to pamper your loved ones, as our array of events is becoming increasingly popular. “Some people join us to celebrate a romantic occasion or birthday,” Nicole adds, “but many others bring out-of-town guests and friends they simply want to enjoy good times with.” Contact Nicole for reservations at nicole@sunstonewinery.com or 1-800-313-WINE, ext. 227. Must be 21 or over to attend.
Making a List? Checking it twice?
Santa’s Helpers have been busy with gift ideas for the wine enthusiasts on your list:
*A Gift Membership to Club Sunstone reminds your loved ones they’re thought of all year long. Select two, four or six bottle shipments; standard or reds only. Recipients enjoy all the benefits of membership including wine shipments, complimentary tastings, discounts, and events. Why not begin with our Holiday Bonus Shipment? As laws vary by state, please check with Carol Treat (ext. 234) when placing your order.
*The greatest gift we can give is the gift of time. Invite your guests to join you at one of Sunstone’s top-notch Special Events in 2009. Choose from theater outings, films, gourmet dinners, picnics, and more. See the enclosed order form, or contact Nicole Sattler (ext. 227) for details.
*In a hurry? Pre-packaged gift-boxes are available now from Sunstone. Recipients will be delighted with this clever assortment of wines, condiments, and other merchandise ... and you’ll be thrilled with the ease of shopping and shipping. Pick up your selection in the Tasting Room or order direct via our website or the enclosed form. Customized gift sets also available upon request.
Let Sunstone Winery put the “Joy” back in your holiday preparations! Orders placed by December 17 will be shipped in time for Christmas [12/25] or Chanukah [12/21], where permissible by law, within the continental United States.
